Bottega Veneta SS26: Louise Trotter’s Sculptural Debut

If ever there was a show to sit up straight for, it was this one. Louise Trotter officially made her debut at Bottega Veneta with the Spring/Summer 2026 collection earlier today, she is the first woman to ever take over the helm of the house. Out of fifteen major designers showing in Milan this season, only two are women. That alone made this debut feel monumental.

Watching live, the excitement was palpable. Stars arriving, the quirky seating, the kinetic energy of every look - it was a whole experience. Vogue live-streamed the show with a commentary blog, making it easy to follow even from home. It’s one of the best experiences as a fashion fanatic to watch the show live from the comfort of my bed! 

Watch the livestream yourself here -

The seats

Arriving at the venue near the Fondazione Prada, the first thing that hits you is the seating: cubed, candy-coloured arrangements that look like a Haribo x wine-gum crossover. Everyone was obsessed! Myself included, with the modular design, which left room for the runway and framed the space beautifully. Overhead, 3D woven chain sculptures and hanging intrecciato details dripped from the ceiling, creating a playful yet architectural backdrop. 

Natural light poured through the windows, soft and clear, a perfect contrast to the show’s darker, moody moments later on. Mark Holgate one of Vogue’s contributors via the live Vogue blog stream) described the lighting emphasising the “new beginning for the house,” and honestly, it felt exactly like that.

Then the lights dropped. Nina Simone’s “Wild Is the Wind” filled the space, moody and simmering. When the lights came back on, the first model appeared in a tailored trench coat with oversized buttons. Simple, sculptural, quietly commanding - the classic Bottega intrecciato making itself known immediately in small details. The opening felt restrained, almost like a breath before the real excitement started. The models altered in their directions, adding to the theatrics of the show.

And then it began: Louise’s 76-look collection, a mix of technical tailoring and fantasy. Right away, you notice her hallmarks: sculptural minimalism, softened silhouettes, and a play of textures. Fringe was of course involved as it’s the trend of the year, feathered coats shimmered, and crushed silks caught the light just right. There was a controlled energy here- alive, yet luxurious. Trotter isn’t reinventing Bottega; she’s refining it, sculpting it, making it move.

All my favourite looks (there are a lot)-  2, 6, 7, 11, 13, 15, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 32, 35, 42, 43, 51, 52, 58, 64, 66, 67, 69, 71, 76. 

Fringe and feathers dominated, moving hypnotically with every step. Look 32 (right) completely stole my attention, so much so I had to pause the livestream! A powder-blue jacket with a glassy, liquid-like finish that glistened with every move. Everyone was bewildered by the fabric, but it was mesmerising, like water in motion.

One Vogue contributor even said it looked like the mirrored stools in the venue - and it definitely complemented them. Look 33, its sister piece, practically radiated sunlight, in a beautiful orangey-yellow shade stunning contrast to its water twin, and even further down the line Look 71 (above) - a bright red version also came into the picture!

As the show went on, the variety of fabrics kept blowing me away: feathered fluffiness that looked warm yet shiny, crushed silks that gleamed, soft, bouncy jackets that seemed almost alive. Looks 32, 33, 58, 59, 71 - all were insane, each more magical than the last. Fringe on skirts, feathers on coats, optical effects on outerwear, Trotter was having fun, yet everything remained perfectly elegant and most importantly perfectly Bottega!

Textures were everything this season, balanced by Trotter’s signature “soft masc” tailoring: boxy jackets and structured trousers softened by plush fabrics and flowing silhouettes. Even small gestures -  a strap slipping off a shoulder, the waft of a feather, everything was personal. 

Then there’s the intrecciato, of course. Celebrating its 50th anniversary, it appeared in full-look coats, trousers, bags, and even inside jacket flaps. Top-to-toe intrecciato? Absolute heaven. Look 13 (below), a brown intrecciato jacket, is basically my dream piece - elegant, playful, tactile, and entirely Bottega, I want it immediately!!! Trotter also included her signature knot motif as structural details across garments and accessories, keeping a modern edge on classic codes.

The colour palette was neutral at first with black and white as a palette cleanser - before pops of candy colours, jewel tones, and softer shades appeared. Blue, orange, and red punctuated the runway at key moments, giving the show a seasonal color story that felt fresh and cohesive. Seasonal colour analysis at its finest, honestly.

The red finale dress (left) was classically Trotter but in a bold tomato red - it's white twin went just before! It was sleek, and sculptural, it moved magically and was so sophisticated in its silhouette.

Louise Trotter herself appeared briefly carrying a bright red bag, but blink and you miss her! She let the collection speak for itself, and it very much did!

Backstage, after the show, Trotter commented that the inspiration was about her journey through the archives and her own discovery of Bottega, blending heritage with her vision. This debut confirmed that vision superbly. Bottega is in very safe, and chic hands. Trotter’s take is refined, playful, and elegant. She doesn’t radically reinvent the wheel; she perfects it and twists it into her own!

I’m already obsessed - Louise Trotter is officially one of my favourite designers right now.

With love,

Mimi x