Colourful Class: Ulla Johnson’s SS26 Triumph

Look 26

Ulla Johnson, born and raised in Manhattan, returned to NYFW this morning to bring her SS26 Ready-to-Wear collection to life. The 56-look collection was filled with unique, unbelievable colourways and sophisticated silhouettes. Johnson,still the creative director herself, always portrays a bohemian-chic universe, and this collection didn’t underdeliver!

The collection featured floor-length gowns dripping with colour and uniquely shaped structures. One beige maxi dress (look 25 - below) stood out with gathered, floaty sleeves and a ruched bodice that accentuated the model’s silhouette with exaggerated proportions. Unlike many of the collections shown throughout the week, this one featured more colour than neutrals! A true rarity in today’s demographic.

It was refreshing to see a collection embrace such vibrancy. Yes, there were a few tailored neutrals too (however most of them had a streak of gold in them!) A perfectly cut trench coat (Look 21) in a classic nude shade appeared midway through the runway, styled with a very bright lemon clutch, ballerina lace-up kitten heels, a rose-coloured unitard, and a feathered neckpiece. Truly original to Ulla Johnson.

Among the collection, the coloured looks followed two different pathways. A darker palette introduced a 9-look sub-collection of royal blue, pink, and orange. This colourway seamlessly transitioned from earlier orange-toned pieces into the final looks of the show. The colour work was deeply impressive - each hue blending into the next with a mesmerising, cohesive effect.

ABOVE - LOOKS (in order) 56 , 25, 52

Within this sub-collection, ruffles were in abundance, a personal favourite technique of mine! They were sewn with exposed seams, adding an intentional element of imperfection. Ruching was another lovely touch, especially on Look 52 (above). The dress appeared to be hand-dyed - a risky move for such a major collection, but one that absolutely paid off.

Another sub-collection featured earthy tones with an even broader colour selection. Bright lime, orange, rust, fuchsia, lilac, red, burgundy, brown, forest green - all featured in sheer, lightweight fabrics perfect for spring. These colours appeared in trenches, dresses, scarves, belts, trousers, skirts, and even everyday basics like long-sleeve tops. Look 24 (below) and Look 26 (above) were personal favourites - they brought a vibrancy and energy to the runway that so many designers forget to include.

The collection practically screamed spring/summer and had a little something for everyone. Of course, there were also more natural shades and neutrals - one standout being Look 10: a simple, floaty pale blue dress. Bohemian chic reimagined into a soft silhouette with lace detailing at the bust and trim.

ABOVE - LOOKS (in order) 24, 22, 10

There was even a jeans-and-knit-top moment (Look 22 - above) - a bohemian lace knit paired with chunky gold jewellery and a leather satchel. And the shoes! The footwear in this collection was brilliant. Open-knit ballet flats (an ode, I feel, to the rise of the beach shoe) and heels with cushioned exteriors and velour ribbons tied around the ankle, a delicate, elegant touch to add to the slightly more understated looks.

See the full collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/ulla-johnson/slideshow/collection

This collection truly sparked something in me. As someone majorly obsessed with neutrals, I now have a new appreciation for a more expansive colour palette - which is no easy feat!

With 56 stunning looks, each original in its own way, some with feathers, some with ruffles, some with ruching, some with jaw-dropping colour-ways - Ulla Johnson has delivered a masterclass in bohemian sophistication.

With love,

Mimi x