Dior Reimagined: Jonathan Anderson’s Dreamlike Debut

Look 20

When I tuned into the livestream for Dior’s Spring/Summer 2026 womenswear show, I’ll be honest -  I was confused. For the first 40 minutes of the show’s official start time, there was no runway, no models, no music. Instead, we saw a stream of celebrities entering Dior’s historic atelier and being fitted. Was this the new collection? Was it being spoiled in real-time? Of course not. But as someone eagerly awaiting the collection, I was getting antsy.

As it turned out, what we were seeing was a behind-the-scenes look at the arrival outfits! The fittings, the tweaks, the iconic white-coated artisans of Dior’s atelier at work. A rare and intimate glimpse into the craftsmanship that usually hides behind the curtain. It was a clever misdirect: a prelude, not a reveal.

Then the camera cuts to the actual venue. A large white exterior, buzzing with fashion’s elite, was punctuated by a giant suspended triangle descending from the ceiling. Onto this 3D pyramid a projection played: “The House of Dior.” An emotional, non-linear film chronicling Dior’s legacy. Not just a tribute to Christian Dior, but also to the designers who carried the torch -  Galliano, Ferré, Bohan, Chiuri. It was a cinematic montage of Dior’s best moments, cut together like memory fragments. I loved that it acknowledged every era, as if to say:

“Here’s what’s come before. Now watch what comes next.”

Watch the entire livestream here:

Jonathan Anderson is Dior’s new creative director for both menswear and womenswear - a huge step for the house and for him. SS26 is one of his first major statements in this role, and what a statement it was. He’s not here to erase Dior’s legacy, but rather to recodify it. He’s twisting it, subverting it, and layering it with his own brand of surreal, often cheeky elegance.

The cinematic pre-show began with a soundscape of sombre music, sporadic screaming, and a woman asking: “Who are you?” A simple question, yet one loaded with weight. Who is Dior under Jonathan Anderson? And then the pyramid pulsed red and exploded into a frenzy of colour and imagery, every past moment in the montage now hyper-sped into chaos. It was dizzying, electric, and utterly captivating. I had goosebumps. People began applauding before a single model had walked out.

Then the laboratory-bright lights came on, and the first look (below) entered the prism-shaped runway. The look was polished, sculptural, clean and unmistakably Dior. And Lady Dior at that! Draped fabric flowed with precision. A bow sat neatly at the bust. Even the shoes had an elegant but Anderson whimsy to them. 

Some of my favourite looks included: 1, 5, 6, 14, 20, 21, 22, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45, 50, 53, 55, 56, 57, 63, 64, 68, 69, 71, and 74 - a hefty list, I know. But this was a 74 look very dense, rich collection.

The pacing was swift. Models glided past in precise intervals. Music softened. The heels - square-toed kitten styles with delicate bows (were ones we’d seen teased days before on JW Anderson’s Instagram) I love them! Already iconic.

Headwear was a key motif: tricorn hats, sculptural couture toppers, and wild feathered pieces. Some looks reimagined 18th-century silhouettes -  think Marie Antoinette, but as reinterpreted by Stephen Jones on a surrealist bender. There were jackets nodding to the tricorn cut, massive bows blooming from the back of gowns, and lace spilling from unexpected seams.

Tailoring was sharp, but softened by playful volume. A series of blue and white dresses featured perfect draping, airy yet grounded in structure. Pops of tomato red punched through the palette (as predicted!) Some looks were wearable, some fantastically impractical - but all felt considered.

And then came THE look (20 - above). The one leaked weeks ago on Anderson’s personal Instagram: a baby blue, silk-woven dress with sharp tailoring and an accentuated waist. It floated, and blew me away. Later, its surprise sisters appeared in black and cream. Triplets on the runway. Confirming that the leaked piece wasn’t just teaser bait -  it was the crown jewel.

Of course, not everything landed. For some reason there were these limp legging sets with ruffled collars (Look 36) These felt like a misstep. It looked undercooked. Slightly cheap. Almost like a rehearsal piece that snuck its way into the final lineup. Not very Dior.

But overall? More hits than misses. A whirlwind of fabric and fantasy. It wasn’t always quintessentially Dior, but that’s the point - Anderson isn’t trying to recreate the past. He’s remixing it.

There were standout moments of deconstruction: bunched up fabric on mini skirts, sculptural blazers, exposed seams, dramatic ruffles which moved from back to front. Some of my favourites of this deconstructed unconventional category were two twin pea coats, high neckline, peplum cut and unconventionally cut to leave all the lower level hanging at the front!

Look 53 (above)’s brown and Look 69’s navy counterpart! Other details: hand-beaded embellishments, individually placed petals, a touch of knitwear. Feathered bubble skirts. And yes, the rose shoes. They were… divisive. 

The soundtrack was also layered with meaning: “She Walks in Beauty” by Lord Byron was read aloud over the audio of “Song of the Sex Monk” by Tom of England. Unexpected, oddly beautiful. Welcome to Anderson’s Dior.

Then came Look 74 (above) - the closer. At first glance, a shimmering ivory gown. But look closer and you’ll notice: it’s covered in tiny shell motifs, like a reimagining of the classic Miss Dior dress, which featured blue shells. Here, we saw white, smaller, denser shells- a tribute, not a copy. A soft, beautiful nod to Dior history, filtered through Anderson’s lens. 

The King himself!

Seemingly all the creative directors debuting this season are taking it back to basics by rooting through the archives! The collection left me both overwhelmed and elated. Filled with hope and admiration for the collection, but not feeling it was very clearly Dior. You have to watch the intro video to get all the references!

Jonathan Anderson closed the show with his signature shy wave, visibly exhausted. He is always such a modest and shy KING! He deserves a month-long nap. Go get that rest king.

Recharge for AW26!

With love, 

Mimi x