MFW SS26 (24th): Missoni Sparkled, KNWLS Niked, and Jil Sander Showed Up

Um how are we already on day 3 (almost day 4) of Milan Fashion Week?!?! This is going by ridiculously fast. Today provided me with lots of hope, then fear, then hope again for the fashion industry. Starting off not so strong with Jil Sander by Simone Bellotti, in his Creative Director Debut...

Jil Sander (Simone Bellotti) - September 24 @10:30am 

A fresh artistic direction for the minimalist house. Jil Sander is known for their modern minimalism and quiet luxury. Which we definitely got following today's display. I wrote yesterday in my notes, “Jil Sander - Predicting Boring.” I must have superpowers because it was, indeed, boring.

Appointed as Creative Director in March, this SS26 collection marked Simone Bellotti’s debut. You’d think he’d come in bold - but no. Instead, we got 61 looks that felt like quantity over quality. It was average, not eye-catching, and honestly quite shocking for a debut. Boring, basic, and very safe. Then again, in this economy, I can’t even blame him. He probably wants the buyers on board before showing us anything too creative. Maybe next season?

There were a few highlights - Look 49 - below (my one and only favourite) for example, a boxy white dress (with pockets!) with strict and beautiful tailoring to create a very clean silhouette. I also liked the trio of Looks 34, 35, and 36: a pink mini, a blue skirt, and a white cap sleeve dress all made in a textured, feathery fabric that actually caught my eye. A rare moment of interest in an otherwise underwhelming display.

The show even ended on a weak note, with more of the same cheap-looking materials. Is this Zara or Jil Sander? You can’t charge £2,500 for a coat that looks like it’s made from a bin bag. Combine that with a lineup of pale, lifeless-looking models, and the whole thing just felt a bit off.

Look 49

Visually, it leaned into familiar Jil Sander codes: structured yet airy silhouettes, hidden slits, subtle cut-outs, and a very restrained colour palette. Although Royal blue and tomato red made a few bold appearances, alongside orange and pink.

There was even a rogue purple leather look (19) that felt completely out of place. Lots of leathers, nylons, and mesh, in the form of tailored coats, blazers and even t-shirts. There was also lots of clean, simplistic layering between all of the colours on display, it was simplistic but quite elegant - A long red knit jumper with a cropped navy jumper on top - above (24)  - I can appreciate and get behind this idea!

Overall there was just very minimal experimentation. Look 44 - a grey mini dress with a cut-out chest and matching bralette, tried something, but even that felt muted. It was tame. Predictable. And frankly, dull. But maybe that’s the point? Bellotti might’ve nailed the Jil Sander brief: minimal, controlled, disciplined - and entirely safe.

It wasn’t horrible that's for sure, there were even a few pieces I stopped to appreciate while scouting the collection. It just wasn’t what I expected from a debut Creative collection. Average and definitely not news worthy. 

See the full collection here - https://www.tag-walk.com/en/collection/woman/jil-sander/spring-summer-2026?city=milan

Missoni - September 24 @4pm 

Look 14

Missoni’s SS26 collection delivered 36 unapologetically bold looks that were, in every way, definitively Missoni. Think sparkles, sequins, signature swirl patterns,  all infused with a distinctly playful energy. I saw a TikTok this morning that was claiming “funky chic” as the new vibe of the year, and although this is a Spring/Summer '26 collection, it fully embraced that ethos - and I am 100% on board.

The silhouettes celebrated the female form beautifully, every single model's legs were on full display, bold linears, French-style hats, and chunky, eye-catching accessories. Think oversized pendants, dangling chains, and statement shoes in vibrant pops of colour. One of my standout looks was Look 14 (right): a long, vertically striped shirt with puffed sleeves, shimmering in pastel blue, yellow and purple sequins. It danced between beach cover-up and dinner outfit , that magic balance of casual glamour Missoni does so well.

Styled with bikini-style bottoms peeking out in coordinating blue, black and white stripes, the look was completed with a chunky gold chain necklace, matching bracelet, and two bags: a sparkly striped tote (complete with a perfectly rolled towel in classic Missoni zigzag) and a smaller leather evening bag perched on top. It was playful, practical, and purposeful - offering so many avenues of real styling ideas for fashion buyers.

That duality was consistent throughout: day-to-night, beach-to-bar. Every piece had a purpose. Each model who carried a bag carried two! One for the beach, one for the club. It painted the picture of a chic, busy woman doing it all. Beachclub-ready, towel in one hand, purse in the other. I adored it.

The show fully leaned into Missoni’s DNA, from the riot of stripes (horizontal, vertical, zigzag, swirled, beaded, sequinned) to the cohesive seasonal styling. Finally, a runway where everyone looked like they were dressing for the same climate! The looks oozed spring-summer energy -  effortless but intentional, relaxed yet elevated. There wasn’t a single outfit I wouldn’t want packed in my suitcase for a European holiday.

This was Missoni at its best: vibrant, confident, and fun. The stripes were doing the absolute most and I loved every second. Funky chic is here to stay, and Missoni just gave us the ultimate wardrobe to prove it.

See the full collection here - https://www.tag-walk.com/en/collection/woman/missoni/spring-summer-2026?city=milan

KNWLS – September 24 @8pm 

Look 20

KNWLS -  the design duo Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, have delivered once again, bringing their irreverent aesthetic from London to Milan this SS26 season. Their debut at Milan Fashion Week (their first show there) was a 37‑look collection that felt eclectic, daring, and totally in tune with who they are. 

Nike made its presence known this season by collaborating directly with KNWLS, all the shoes were Nike, as well as many ticks that could be spotted throughout the collection! They slipped into the KNWLS narrative as underlays and accents. In Look 2 (below), a washed‑grey bodysuit layered beneath a custom dark green Nike tee paired seamlessly with a texture-rich utility corset, dropped waist and accentuated hips. Leggings throughout the show whispered the KNWLS DNA, but a Nike tick peeked at waistbands and matching sports bras, giving a clever fusion of sport and statement.

My absolute favourite was Look 20 - above. Pale green leggings with cut-out details and flared ankles (yes, Nike ticks included) paired with a matching bra top. Over that: a neutral brown and beige jacket-and-skirt combo with ruched sleeves and a cinched waist. It felt like pilates-to-coffee dressing perfected. The mint and beige tones mixed in an unexpected but flattering way. If this wasn’t 100% going to cost thousands, I’d be trying to buy it now.

Then there’s Look 23 (below) - a pale icy blue leather set with silver grommets at the ankles and rust-orange linear tracings down the trousers. The cropped corset is sculpted and bold, evoking a luxury‑yoga suit that’s sexy and precise.

Edge came also via tailoring: Look 10 (right), a cropped black trench with a high collar and dramatic winged shoulders, was STUNNING. The silhouette felt iconic. They also delivered it in beige, but the black? Irresistible and chic. 

Colour and pattern evolved across the collection: starting with neutrals and slipping into icy blue tones, soft pinks, and mint green accents. As well as a remarkable amount of plaid. Shapes were used in clever and playful ways: boxy cuts, robotic-like creations, balloon arms (Look 5 - right) some pieces were sculptural, others alien in form. The tailoring is bespoke, the imagery bold, the mood undeniably KNWLS.

They struck that balance: sensuality + structure + exposed detail, while never losing precision. This show was exactly the vibe I wanted and expected, it was confident, cohesive, and extravagant. And of course, I’m already wanting at least half of it.

See the full collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/charlotte-knowles#review

What's to come -

And just like that, Day 3 came and went. From Jil Sander’s beige-on-beige debut to Missoni’s sparkly beach bar fantasy and KNWLS’ Nike-infused badassery, it was a day of contrasts, confusion, and serious coveting.

I'm both dreading and eagerly anticipating tomorrow! A day with so many show I'm going to have to ice my hands after from writing so much! From Max Mara, Boss, Prada, Emporio Armani, Moschino, and finishing it all off with Roberto Cavalli! Bring on Day 4.

With love,

Mimi x