Versace SS26: Dario Vitale’s Debut Colourful 80s Collection

Look 62

Although absent from the official Milan Fashion Week runway schedule, Dario Vitale’s debut collection for Versace dropped last night in an intimate presentation, it marked a significant moment for the brand: the first collection following Donatella’s unexpected departure earlier this year. Her exit shocked the industry, and all eyes have been on Vitale to see what direction he’d take this iconic house in. Having spent over a decade at Miu Miu, his luxury credentials are undeniable, but Versace? I wasn’t 100% convinced. 

Versace has needed a reset. The appointment of Vitale suggested change, a pivot from the hyper-glamorous Donatella era to something (perhaps) more considered. So when I opened Instagram after four hours of typing (and losing the will to live), only to see Versace had dropped their new collection without warning, I had mixed emotions. Elation, excitement… and rage. Because my fingers can’t keep up with Milan Fashion Week's relentless calendar!

The vibe? Block colours, bold layering, and accessories galore. There were 75 looks in total - a serious debut statement. The layering was chaotic, with colours overlapping, clashing, and harmonising all at once. Accessories were classic Versace: chunky chains, singular oversized earrings, and a delightful disregard for subtlety. The styling was full throttle and I did love that, it was very 80s. 

The venue for this intimate affair was so disturbingly Versace, it almost didn’t matter what the clothes looked like. Hosted at the historic Pinacoteca Ambrosiana in Milan, a museum dripping in marble statues, grand staircases, and full Renaissance vibes. No celebrities were invited, just the fashion industry’s inner circle and a cast of international models so meticulously curated it felt like a Vogue Italia fever dream.

As for the runway route - the models had to descend a precariously long  staircase. Iconic, yes, but also a liability. Any asthmatics would've been out immediately, and the scattered rugs across the floor, marked with music notes and bold red lines. When the runway began the backdrop of muted marble and stone immediately allowed the collection’s explosive colour palette to take centre stage. 

Look 1

The opening look is crucial. And honestly? I wasn’t sold. A red T-shirt peeked out beneath a blue vest, layered under a dark blue jacket, paired with bright green capri trousers and a brown leather handbag. Add one dramatic hoop earring, a dual-toned chain, and bejewelled mules, and you've got a lot going on. It was’t ugly but it wasn’t beautiful. It wasn’t screaming, “This is my opening look of my debut collection for Versace!”  For a debut collection, I wanted a punchier start.

But things picked up quickly. Look 2 (above left) featured multicoloured jeans printed with about seven expressive faces in black lino print - a recurring motif throughout the collection. These artistic, face-covered pieces became signature moments, which I did love.

That said, there were… clown trousers. Quite a few. Boxy, balloon-like shapes in loud stripes made appearances in multiple looks - from bold orange-yellow-green in Look 66 (below left) to equally exaggerated versions in Looks 63, 65, 67, 68, 69, and 70. The trousers were funny, but maybe not in the way Vitale intended. They clashed awkwardly with beautifully crafted tops, like a stunning beaded bra in Look 66 that deserved a less cartoonish pairing.

Favourites - 2, 6, 7, 8, 11, 15, 18, 20, 21, 28, 32, 35, 45, 48, 49, 50, 57, 62, 64, 71, 73. 

Look 73 (below left), which closed the show with subtle grandeur. It was the only look I felt truly resonated with classic Versace! A black and gold beaded bra top paired with a matching beaded skirt, refined, sexy, and so Versace. Of course colour had to come in as well so a red jumper was tied around the waist, and blue suede heels with ankle socks added an unexpected but welcome twist.

What I admired most was the beading. In a collection bursting with chaos, the hand-crafted, laborious details stood out. Pieces that whispered “60 hours of work” instead of pieces that were so colourful my eyes hurt, gave the collection a layer of sincerity and craft that was much needed.

Overall, the collection leaned hard into the 80s, as Vitale intended it to with high-waisted jeans, exposed branded underwear, slinky dresses, tailoring and power silhouettes. The mood was a modernised spin of Gianni’s legacy. In Vitale’s own words:

“I wanted to go behind the clothing. What is the spirit of Versace, more than the clothes itself?”

And while the spirit of Versace was certainly present - the sexiness, the colour, the showmanship, the collection didn’t quite land the knockout punch. It was colourful. It was playful. It had serious potential. But it lacked the razor-sharp cohesion you expect from a house like Versace.

For a debut, though? It didn’t disappoint. It felt like Vitale testing the waters, figuring out how much Versace DNA he can splice with his own. It played things safe in some areas (a wise move if you want customers to actually buy the clothes), but took risks in others. It laid a foundation for him to discover and experiment with in future seasons. 

With love, 

Mimi x