Erdem SS26: Romantic, and Absolutely Genius

Look 3

Set against the dramatic façade of the British Museum, Erdem’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection unfurled like a cinematic dream. The 43-look show drew its usual crowd of fashion royalty, including a front row appearance from none other than Anna Wintour herself!!! 

As the models stepped into the London sunlight, draped in Erdem Moralıoğlu’s signature romance with a twist. Erdem has long been synonymous with poetic femininity, and this season was no exception. The designer leaned confidently into his house codes: romantic tailoring, decadent lace, Victorian corsetry, and high-neck silhouettes were delivered with both restraint and flourish. 

There was a couture-level attention to detail, with cascading floral appliqué, bejewelled embroidery, and carefully distressed threadwork that whispered of age, memory, and rebirth.

Let’s get into the show - 

Favourite Looks: 1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 21, 24, 28, 29, 36, 37, 39, 41, 42, 43 

See the full collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/erdem#review

The show opened with a jaw-dropping statement - a mini dress fully encrusted in lace and appliqué with accentuated hips, a high neckline, and an almost armour-like construction (Look 1 & 3). It felt regal, and elegant. Several dresses echoed this silhouette throughout the collection in different colour-ways, making it feel both consistent and ever-surprising.

Look 41

One of the most breathtaking elements was Erdem’s use of lace, not just as a trim or fabric but as an artistic medium. Look 41 was arguably one of the most genius pieces of the season. An all-lace dress with a corseted waist and flared hips, it featured black threads that fell like ink across the fabric. Upon closer inspection, the threads resembled numbers and symbols trailing toward what appeared to be an electricity outlet sewn to the dress with threads coming out!!!

MINDBLOWING! It was as  if the dress itself was writing its own story through an electric pulse. It was nothing short of revolutionary. Fashion as communication, literally.

From looks 28 through 35, the vibe shifted into a more traditionally spring-summer mood. Think bold pinks, botanical greens, and soft blues floating down the runway in airy chiffon dresses that billowed in the breeze. These looks were perfect for both garden luncheons and red carpet moments, they were effortless but elevated, playful but poised.

The colour palette across the collection was rooted in contrast: creamy whites and soft pastels met moody blacks and earthy browns, punctuated by flashes of bright colour. There were green, blue, red, and soft florals, often peeking out from under skirts or accenting shoes, ballet style shoes with ankle ties added an elegant, romantic finish to many of the looks.

ABOVE - LOOKS (in order) 28, 5, 36

Another standout moment? Looks 36 and 37, nearing the end of the collection with twin crocheted dresses, one white and one black, crafted from circular floral pieces delicately joined together. With ruched high necks and beaded detailing, they struck the perfect balance between handcrafted and modern. 

What I love about Erdem, and what always makes him stand out on the London Fashion Week lineup, is how he balances history and modernity without it ever feeling forced. There’s always a strong story behind his work, like you can almost sense the woman he’s designing for. She’s complex, powerful, a little mysterious… definitely not just there to look pretty. But at the same time, there’s this really fresh, forward-thinking edge , not just in the fabrics or silhouettes, but in the actual ideas. 

I mean, digitised lace that looks like it’s writing its own story? Genius. SS26 proved, yet again, that Erdem doesn’t play it safe when it comes to femininity. The tailoring was sharp, the embellishments felt emotional, and the whole vibe? Romantic, but also bold, brainy, and totally electrified. I loved it.

With love, 

Mimi x