LFW (19th) SS26: Runway Roundup
- Mimi Piqua
- Sep 20
- 7 min read
London Fashion Week - 19th - Day in Review -
The first whole day of London Fashion Week just closed with the Labrum London show, with a live band to set the tone and close the night off! A whole day from 9am-9pm full of emerging, and well known designers displaying the recent fruits of their creative minds. It looked amazing.
After such a packed day I think it’s only right if you get a quick synopsis of the day. Including only my favourites, and the most anticipated, giving you only the info you need to know as a fashion lover this London Fashion Week! This issue includes - Paul Costelloe who set the tone this morning, Di Petsa, Fashion East, Mark Fast, Chopova Lowena, and an event dinner from JW Anderson x The British Fashion Council, and finally Labrum London…
Paul Costelloe - 19th @9am
Paul Costelloe opened up LFW day 1 with a show at 9am. Wow. Personally, it was too early for me, so I had to catch up. They are a long-standing LFW favourite, and for good reason, known for their refined tailoring and bold silhouettes that blend classic British heritage with modern flair. Paul Costelloe I actually casted for this season and got clearly rejected. But I can’t even be mad because the models were so perfectly selected!
This collection was an ode to the old heritage, bold and vibrant streets of Rodeo Drive in 1960s Beverly Hills, with the collection fittingly titled ‘Boulevard of Dreams’. The hair and makeup was so complimentary to the looks. The entire collection was giving Barbie.
All monochromatic looks in 3 main colour categories, pink, blue, orange and yellow. Most of which was in a plaid - which I can definitely get behind as a pattern for SS26. The subtle tailoring of each look - blazers, skirts, dresses, it was all stunning. And perfectly paired with chunky statement jewels (still in the monochromatic pattern) as well as block heels - really adding to the Barbie vibe!
I loved this collection, the hair in particular was my favourite. The back combed beehive was 100% giving a vintage Barbie - 60s Beverly Hills Barbie to be exact, as well as the pastel makeup and exaggerated lower lashes. Sixties swing dresses in vibrant apricot waltzed down the runway, they were all styled in 60s silhouettes.
However there were still modernised touches such as metallics which were evident but softened through pearly hues on babydoll dresses. It was perfect, each and every model looked like a walking piece of art.
See the full collection here - https://www.tag-walk.com/en/collection/woman/paul-costelloe/spring-summer-2026?city=london
Dreaming Eli - 19th @2pm
Held in a dramatic church setting the collection continues on the brand’s tradition of blending corsetry, fluid silhouettes, and intricate detailing. There was lace, layering, and drapery, with contrasts of rigidity and softness. There was definitely a romantic, ethereal aesthetic with an emotional edge. Femininity was explored through the storytelling of the collection and the craftsmanship.
My favourite look - Look 41 - Is a black and white lace dream, it blends the materials seamlessly on the model and they look as if they float off her body. The silhouette and cut of the dress is stunning - this collection surprised me, coming from an emerging designer such as Dreaming Eli - however I am pleasantly surprised!
See the full collection here -
Di Petsa - 19th @2:30
Where do I begin? It was a wet and sandy universe , designer Dimitra Petsa fell into the realm of “magical realism”; the collection provided a 45 look database of sea creatures. Some models looked spectacularly mermaid-esque, goddesses of the sea, very much spring/ summer approved.
Others looked as if the sea had just spat them out, with sand and mud dripping off of them. A few of the models looked even visibly embarrassed to be strutting with mud falling off their faces. This was Petsa’s first independent show, held at a new multi -purpose building in Kings Cross.
It is a big step to take and after four years and not so much a newbie she flew the nest to go into the spotlight purely herself. The collection is actually really very creative and cool, one of the looks even has a sand castle cap which is very original! And the final look is a breathtaking sand coloured ruffle- tiered dress, very much oozing the mermaid queen vibe! Petsa’s goal and vision was exceptionally strong and this is a killer first collection. I’m excited for what’s to come…
See the full collection here -
Fashion East - 19th @4pm
Fashion East, the non-profit incubator for emerging designers, celebrated its 25th anniversary this LFW with a showcase of three SS26 collections. Below are three images - shown in order 1,2,3.
First up was Louis Mayhew, making his Fashion East debut with 13 streetwear-inspired, DIY-driven looks full of scrunchy textures, raw energy, and playful, unconventional details - such as the opening look which had random pieces of broken china hanging from a polo!
The second designer, Nuba, led by Cameron Williams, returned for their third season with Fashion East, with 13 minimalist, sustainably-minded tailored looks, blending clever formalwear (fracks, redingotes) with strong craftsmanship and a refined colour palette. More simplistic colour palette and less bold choices than others, but the niche is strong.
Finally, Barcelona-born Jacek Gleba, fresh from Central Saint Martins, presented 12 bold, conceptually edgy looks that fused sportswear and outerwear in an unorthodox manner with polished tailoring.The 12 look collection had a very strong vision, as well as colour palette - his design sensibility leans toward polished tailoring with conceptual edge.
It was an exciting showcase, highlighting three designers to watch in future seasons.
See the full collection here -
Mark Fast - 19th @5pm
Mark Fast’s Spring 2026 lineup was deeply inspired by nature and process, channeling time
by the sea and the art of transformation, like sea‑glass smoothed by tides, into knitwear that feels both raw and refined. He leaned on strong yarns with tubular techniques to deliver body‑conscious silhouettes: hand‑crocheted skirts, bralettes, and dresses that hug while also achieving seamless construction.
The 36 look collection featured many knits, however the closing look - first right - was my favourite. A black knitted one piece with cascading flared feathers from the knee, and such a perfectly shaped knit top section! It was perfectly constructed and I would personally pay good money to wear it.
I was made to use the knit machine once at college and I have got to say it is a craft in itself, it is so difficult to perfect - and he’s done just that! It is truthfully very chaotic, but as Fast says, “something beautiful comes out at the end.”
Amid the knits, he added contrast with pale velour separates, lace and washed‑denim pieces salted with beach‑found bleach tones, and gothic‑leaning details in black ruffles and lace to offset softer pastels. The collection plays with opposites, handcrafted vs mass reproducible, delicate vs grungy, polished vs rugged - all while maintaining that signature knit‑led intimacy.
See the full collection here - https://www.tag-walk.com/en/collection/woman/mark-fast/spring-summer-2026?city=london
Chopova Lowena - 19th @6pm
Chopova Lowena, founded in 2017 by Central Saint Martins graduates Emma Chopova and
Laura Lowena, blends folk craft, punk, and school uniform references into distinctive, playful collections. Their SS26 Collection just debuted in London, labelled “Cheer Squad”, showcasing the brand’s signature pleating, tartans, folkloric embroidery, quirky prints, and DIY-inspired details, creating a visually rich, almost sensory-overload runway.
This collection didn’t disappoint in any of these regards, featuring their typical vibe. Incorporating something for a lot of different demographics! They had goth core chainmail, lots of black, quirky prints, deconstructed skirts and lots of safety pins. Many of the looks reminded me of Bratz dolls! There were many school skirt style looks as well, an ode to a punky, goth school girl who would do anything in her power to accessorise her school uniform!
In 2024, they won the British Fashion Council, receiving £150,000 plus expert mentorship and lots of support! It’s no wonder their location was grander, their looks were more thought out, and their hair and makeup team were perfect. For a brand on the rise they are doing amazingly. This collection wasn’t something I would personally put in my wardrobe but they know their target audience to a T and that’s the most important thing for a brand.
See the full collection here -
JW Anderson x British Fashion Council Dinner Event - 19th @8pm
A dinner by JW Anderson is not one I ever want to miss. While I may not be RSVP’ing just yet, I’m happy to cheer from the side lines! JW Anderson is truly one of a kind and as his much anticipated first Womenswear collection at Dior is looming upon us at PFW, (which i cannot contain my excitement for!!)
I'm assuming he doesn’t want to take away from that and so for his own eponymous label he is hosting a dinner! With the help of the British Fashion Council, this dinner event sets the tone for a creative renewal.
Labrum London - 19th @9pm
Labrum London, founded in 2014 by Foday Dumbuya, blends his Sierra Leonean heritage with London upbringing to create menswear that bridges Western and West African influences through thoughtful, detail-driven design.
The SS26 collection told a clear story of heritage, with 36 looks featuring standout hats - from royal guard inspired dual -brimmed styles with shells and feathers to towering sculptural straw creations. It was so perfectly done. The collection initially wasn’t even on my list but caught my eye immediately when scrolling on instagram!
The collection balanced bright shades like orange, teal, and purple with more muted earthy tones, combining tailored silhouettes and relaxed fits across dresses, blazers, skirts, and expertly fitted suits. Labrum London’s commitment to craftsmanship and meticulous construction was evident throughout, reinforcing the brand’s unique approach to cultural storytelling and modern menswear - blurring the lines with some womenswear pieces along the way.
See the full collection here -
What's to come
The 19th has come to a close and the 20th is now upon us! If this much fresh talent was given to us on day 1 I can only imagine how the remaining 3 days are going to go. I’m looking forward to Toga , Roksanda, and Sinead Gorrey coming to us later!
I need to nap before I go to more castings! Then more writing. Some of my best friends are walking in shows today, I am buzzing for them and super excited to get the bts gossip - which I will of course be sharing. Stay tuned.
With love,
Mimi x
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