LFW (21st) SS26: I walked a Show & Otherworldly Collections Debuted...
- Mimi Piqua
- Sep 22
- 8 min read
Ahhhhhh. It’s show day. I am so super nervous but I’m sure it will be fine! Call time is 1:30 so I’m about to head up! Gosh I hope the shoes aren’t ridiculously high. Praying for some flats or wedge heels (only because I know many people of influence will be there and I cannot face falling over in front of some of fashion's elite!)
As well as my nervous breakdown, our marketing assistant has just stepped into the realm of Marques A’lmeida to intern for the day and help with the show - keep an eye out for her story about what goes on behind-the-scenes of a runway production, coming later this month.
And as for me, of course I won’t let my modelling success pull me away from writing for you all. I will be catching up on London’s big third day of shows as soon as I get home, and reporting on all the amazing shows occurring today. Including Simone Rocha, Erdem, and Emilia Wickstead!
Talia Byre - 21st @10am
Talia Byre just launched her first official collection at London Fashion Week! We were expecting her usual conceptual depth and emotional resonance from her breakout show, and with a 25 look collection full of flowy silhouettes, stripes, and unique colour combinations I think this was achieved.
Stripes ran throughout the entire collection, beginning first with a bold colour combination of diagonal red and green. It felt more Christmas than Spring, one look (1) had a pair of horizontally striped trousers that bear a high resemblance to what I imagine an elf would wear - paired with sheep-skin ankle boots which are worn by many of the models, again very winter orientated. I’m not sure about the colour palette for these particular looks!
However other pieces were definitely more spring/ summer with more muted stripes showing throughout the collection and some really cool hooded jackets in a perfect pale blue shade! The accessorising was also very strong, with sunglass cases hanging from the neck in various leathers, large leather bags and even some interesting hats on show.
For a breakout collection I think Talia Byre has a lot of potential, the green and red just weren’t for me, but there were some really cool pieces displayed and some of the pops of colour really worked well to accentuate the main white in a lot of the looks.
See the full collection here -
Ashley Williams - 21st @?
This show was kind of weird. One of my friends walked it, which is what brought it to my attention in the first place. Although it was notably missing from the official London Fashion Week schedule, the Ashley Williams Spring/Summer 2026 collection still found its way onto Vogue Runway - and it’s not hard to see why.
The models paraded down the runway wearing what can only be described as horrifically applied synthetic wigs in violently bright colours, sickly shades of pink, purple, electric blue, and neon yellow. It felt intentional, but also slightly like a fever dream. Like a kids’ party gone coquette punk.
Across the 42 looks, the tone stayed semi-weird, with a girlish, coquette / cosplay vibe that embraced childish innocence with a not-so-innocent twist. There were floral nighties, baby tees, and printed mini skirts covered in cats, teddy bears, and toy-like illustrations, evoking a kind of nostalgia.
At moments, it felt like 2014 was having a chaotic comeback - but just as things leaned a little too childish, subtle pirate touches crept in, disrupting the sweetness just enough to keep things off-kilter. The juxtaposition didn’t always work - but maybe that was the point.
According to Vogue’s review, Williams wanted the collection to feel like a “fantasy wardrobe” for girls who make their own stories - which makes complete sense when looking at it. There’s definitely a sense of self-made identity here, with outfits that look like they’ve been styled by raiding your childhood toy box and your older sister’s wardrobe in one go.
While it’s easy to criticise the chaotic styling or the seemingly random references, there’s also something undeniably fun about this collection. It doesn’t ask to be taken seriously. It pokes fun at itself, leans into kitsch, and dares to be ugly. In an era where fashion sometimes feels overly curated and algorithm-pleasing, Ashley Williams reminded me today that fashion is made to be fun, and a bit weird.
See the full collection here -
Tove - 21st @1pm
In the six years since its launch, Tove has quietly but confidently established itself as the go-to brand for women over 35, and this season proved exactly why. Across 34 looks, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection delivered what Tove does best: ankle-grazing dresses, high necklines, leather, and long coats, all twisted, draped, and cut in feminine yet refined ways.
There’s a simplicity in the silhouettes that speaks to an older client base, no fuss, no flash, just considered clothes in luxurious fabrics. The palette stayed mostly neutral, with soft creams and earthy tones broken up by pops of colour: orangey yellow, pale pink, navy, and a standout turquoise blue. That turquoise leather - seen in trenches, skirts, shirts, and belts in looks 26 and 27, was a quiet showstopper.
To some, this collection might seem "boring," but I saw something else entirely. Tove isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel, it’s speaking directly to women who’ve already found their power and don’t need clothes to scream on their behalf. The crowd, filled with London-based women deep in the fashion industry, was a huge testament to that.
Tove caters to middle-aged women, and honestly, I love that for them. The world doesn’t need another brand chasing the 20-something market. These are clothes that can give women their confidence back - luxurious, elegant, and just unique enough to feel special, but never overwhelming.
See the full collection here -
Emilia Wickstead - 21st @2pm
This afternoon, editors and buyers squeezed into Emilia Wickstead’s Sloane Street flagship -
not to shop, but to see her SS26 collection. The space was transformed into a refined salon-style setup, with wooden chairs weaving through each room. Wickstead says she “actually designed the Sloane Street store to be a show space,” as she explained at the preview. “It feels nice to invite everyone into the house we’ve built.”
Across 35 looks, Wickstead did what she does best: polished tailoring, ladylike silhouettes, and clean simplicity. There were elegant plaid details (I did predict its return!), subtle prints on ties (see Look 3), and a few corseted dresses and denim tailoring moments.
Florals made their expected spring return, but one standout detail caught my eye - in Looks 12 and 29, floral mini skirts were cleverly overlaid with sheer plaid, creating a hybrid fabric effect that felt fresh and intentional. Another highlight was the use of a 3D raised-texture fabric, especially in Looks 25, 26, and 33, which gave an otherwise more simplistic lineup a more detailed and sculptural edge.
That said, while the craftsmanship was undeniable, I can’t say the collection left me breathless. It leaned towards minimal and casual, wearable, yes, but at times almost too wearable. Some pieces felt like they could’ve come from high-end Zara. I respect the quiet elegance, but compared to other shows this week, it didn’t quite hit as much.
See the full collection here -
Marques A’lmeida - September 21st @3pm
This 47 look Spring/ Summer collection featured powerful combover hair styles, paired with elegant and clean silhouettes. With a colour palette of olive, burgundy, black, red, champagne, blue, pink and of course butter yellow. They were 100% on trend with what’s currently going on as well as what could be super hot in SS26. Olive for sure is a clever pick.
This one was a special one for us because Mimi had two friends incorporated within the show! Our marketing assistant was helping dress the models, one of which included a close friend of Mimi’s. What a small world. Hence the excitement for the show, and the excitement was worth it.
Some unique and lovely denim pieces filtered through within the collection, coming mid-way through the collection after a myriad of pastels and florals, which was a nice change of pace. I was expecting some raw-edged denim as they usually pull, and that we got - however with an elegant and more sophisticated twist. The denim was done with a dark and cloudy wash, and clever structuring.
Our marketing assistant is going to write all about her experience first-hand working as an intern, but as a preview she said the show was really cool, and very inclusive. They had all ages, hair colours, etc as well as even a baby and a pregnant lady walking the runway - catering directly to real human scenarios which gave a humanistic touch to what can sometimes seem very closed off from the outside world!
There was a distinctly youthful energy as this creative duo continued to champion experimental London fashion with a punch of 2010s nostalgia and Gen-Z grit. This was a standout show for me, with or without the personal connections, for those who love directional, subversive fashion. Keep the name in mind for the future!
See the full collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/marques-almeida/slideshow/collection
Dilara Findikoglu - 21st @9pm!!!
Um. I’ve just checked the Vogue Runway website as per usual (it’s a religion at this point) and stumbled across this otherworldly designer - Dilara Findikoglu. How have I never heard of you before?
This was not just a fashion show. Models were covered in mud, some crying as they walked down the runway, twigs tangled in their hair, face coverings that actually disabled them from seeing (Look 4). This was art. Performance. Some looked possessed, others as if drowning in their own sorrows. One even had a horse mouthpiece on - potentially a comment on animal abuse, or vulnerability, or both?
The collection itself was insane. Ruffles everywhere: neckpieces, lace, leather, high-neck silhouettes, and LOTS of silver hardware, even punky spikes poking out from belts. Look 6? The models eyebrows were replaced with hanging silver hardware that delicately fell to her nose. Genius and terrifying in equal measure.
Look 24 was so unique: cherries cascading down a plain beige-transparent corset, with cherry-stained arms and feet - the detail even extended to hands and toes. One model looked as if an entire jewellery shop had been glued to her face. And then Look 27 - ethereal, utterly unique, breathtaking. It reminded me how wide-reaching design can be when you refuse to play it safe.
No wonder the crowd loved it, I mean Naomi Campbell strutted out for Look 28 in an all-black corset dress with matching sleeves and layers of hardware-heavy necklaces. Look 29? Amelia Gray in a monochromatic red outfit with hardware dangling from her head. Absolutely bonkers.
Dilara Findikoglu SS26 is proof that fashion can be terrifying, raw, and emotional - a full-blown performance that leaves you reeling. I don’t just want to see her next collection; I want to be invited and involved any way I can!
See the full collection here -
Lots happened today...
I successfully walked my first LFW show today! It was so nervewracking, I had all eyes on me for a brief period of time and then It was done (until I had to do it again 5 minutes later in my second look). The adrenaline is going to last me a lifetime, I truly wish everyone got to feel like this at one point or another in their lifetime. It is one hell of an experience and one I won't forget ever - especially because I closed the show too!! AHHHH
I will of course be writing more about this experience - just once the fashion month is beyond us because my poor laptop is writing at least 4000 words a day as it is!
With only one day left of London Fashion Week, and most of the major shows out of the way - bar one! We only have Burberry left, a cult British classic, and for good reason. I will of course be writing all about it...
With love,
Mimi x
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