Moschino SS26: Camp & Chaos

Look 29

Moschino, to me, has always been bold, theatrical, and unapologetically camp. They love to make headlines, though, admittedly, sometimes for the wrong reasons. It’s usually a gamble: the collection is either underwhelming or absolutely spectacular. And obviously, this season I was praying for the latter.

Luckily, Moschino delivered. This 52-look collection was one of the campest, most iconic things I’ve ever seen from the brand and honestly, one of the most exciting shows of the entire SS26 season. There were pieces that had me gagged. Every look was wearable in its own weird, wonderful way -  though you'd definitely need to be ultra cool to pull off Look 21: a custom-painted, two-piece Moschino potato sack. 

There were so many standout moments. A mirror skirt (Look 11 - below) which reflected the lights in every direction. Large arm cuffs (Looks 1 and 20) resembling robotic limbs. Look 13 - a trench coat with a massive, fluffy 3D spider attached to the front collar. Look 22 gave us studded suede bags, which I loved. And then, as if by some SS26 cosmic rule, Look 27 (below) brought the season’s honorary bright purple piece - it’s like every designer got the same dare to add one random purple piece!

ABOVE - LOOKS (in order) 11, 27, 42

There was also some surprisingly beautiful tailoring. Ruffles were added to shirts in unconventional ways (Look 18), interesting cut-outs appeared throughout, and of course, the signature Moschino play on texture and material returned with coats made of fabric scraps (Look 23 - below) - the scraps hung down in neat layers of neutrals, creating a cohesive and almost elegant deconstructed vibe.

This collection excelled in accessories - some of the most inventive I’ve seen all season. Look 14 featured a crown made out of twigs. Then came Look 29 (above): a gravity-defying tower of six differently shaped and patterned gift boxes balanced on the model’s head ( it made me feel anxious just looking at it) And if that wasn’t enough, Look 30 featured a hairpiece hand-crafted to look like a nest, complete with 3D-printed birds, held in place by visible wire. It was sculptural, surreal, and brilliant.

The floral section - of course for Spring! Looks 31 to 34, were very elegant, 3D appliqué flowers swept the floor, trailing from pale pink dresses (right), suit sets, skirts, and even a dramatic black maxi dress. It was delicate but still distinctly Moschino.

One of my personal favourites was the newspaper dress (Look 42 - above). It was covered in prints from various newspapers, tinted with soft yellow, pink and white hues. The model even carried a bundle of fabric “newspapers,” neatly folded in her hand, every detail served to complete the look and tell a full story.

Smiley faces popped up too. Look 45 (above) featured a butter-yellow mohair mini dress with a bold black smiley face on the chest and a unique rolled hem - it was unusual, playful, and of course, camp. I also fell in love with the sheer, structured wire skirts in Looks 3 and 47, one in black and one in orange. Built with wire to hold their exaggerated silhouettes, they were totally sculptural. The orange skirt in particular (Look 3) stood out as it was paired with a large orange t-shirt, cleverly restructured into a fitted vest, with one of the armholes pressed flat across the model’s chest. It was confusing and genius at the same time.

The final few looks continued to push boundaries. Looks 46–49 introduced a caricature vibe. Look 46 had a purple pixelated knit top and trousers, printed with graphic legs. Looks 47, 48, and 49 were crisp white tailored pieces adorned with black hand-drawn lines, giving a cartoonish, illustrated effect that made the garments pop in motion.

But two of my absolute favourite looks were 38 and 39. They took the idea of “recycling” to a new level! Shirts with collars, striped tees, and random garments were flattened or pressed together to create a single sheet of fabric. Look 38 (left) was a full dress made of this patchwork technique, and Look 39 used the same concept in skirt form. It felt revolutionary. Honestly, don’t throw away your old clothes… just glue them into something fabulous. Duh.

Then came the final three looks: 50, 51, and 52. All were beautifully pleated dresses -  a blue gown (Look 50), a minimal grey dress (Look 51), and a white version of the same pleated gown (Look 52). What made them so intriguing wasn’t the garments themselves but the accessories. The blue gown came with a blue sand bucket. The grey dress? Paired with a cooking pot. And the white one? A literal napkin. Simple pieces elevated by absurdly clever styling - leaving you confused but laughing.

See the full collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/moschino/slideshow/collection

Fashion doesn’t often excite me anymore. But this collection made me blush with pure excitement. It gave me hope for the future of fashion. It was camp, it was chaotic, it was clever. SS26 as a whole has felt like a miraculous recovery after years of industry mediocrity… and Moschino just added their name to my list!

With love, 

Mimi x