NYFW: Honorary mentions 14th - 16th

Welcome to the second edition of NYFW: Honorary mentions for the SS26 Season, this is for all of the absolutely amazing shows that stunned me, but aren't too worldwide to have their own post to themselves quite yet. There was such a wide base of talent I even had to split the Honorary mentions into 2 parts. So without further ado - here are all the best shows from 14th - 16th September 2025 - in chronological order!

Jason Wu - September 14th @5pm

Look 7

Jason Wu’s Spring 2026 offering, titled ‘COLLAGE’, is a standout among this season’s NYFW shows, it was basically impossible to ignore! Marking the 100th anniversary of Robert Rauschenberg’s birth, Wu pays tribute to the artist’s collage work, not by literal reproductions but by weaving his experimental spirit into every seam.

Wu is long known for his elegant take on design and bringing in many celebrity clients. I was anticipating this collection - and now it’s out I know I was right!

What makes the collection so compelling is Wu’s clever mashup of classic Americana tailoring and artistic abstraction. There were structured blazers, sharp trousers, and clean shirt silhouettes softened by glossy fabrics and painterly touches - many pieces had a hand done/ hand finished feel to them, which was very purposeful.

The collection balances precision with a relaxed elegance, offering unexpected contrasts around every corner, looks that feel modern, wearable, and just a little offbeat in the best way. 

There’s a sense of maturity here too - Wu doesn’t surprise for shock’s sake. Instead, he lets the clothes take a natural lead. The palette shifts between stark contrast and soft harmony: chalky whites, muted neutrals, and occasional flashes of richer hues. The cuts are a mix between unwearable and wearable, due to the modern take on deconstructive design. Something that could definitely be worn at both a red‑carpet or a stylish night out. 

ABOVE - LOOKS (in order) 5, 37, 38, 10

Some of my favourite looks from the collection feature the unconventional deconstructed design. Look 5 (first above) for example -  A shirt with joint belt skirt attached. Appliqué mimicking a bra slipping off a shoulder, outlined with a solid gold seam. It looks amazing! So original and unapologetically Jason Wu. The use of emerging trend patterns incorporated along the way too - stripes float throughout the 41 look collection. 

Look 37 (second above) - An unconventional bridal look perhaps, a mixture of cream and white fabrics cascade down in various shapes, it looks both unfinished and finished all at once. The patchwork pattern of lace and silk adding to the runaway bride idea. It is so creative, so original. I love it!

Patchwork runs throughout the collection as well. In strips of fabric sewn together to create one piece of fabric - E.g. Look 10 fourth above. A sustainability method, as well as for aesthetics! Look 7 (shown at the top) for example features a jacket, trouser, and skirt combination. All with a complimentary mix of patchwork appliqué over the top. The jacket in particular, with a variety of rectangles, squares etc sewn on to give a futuristic edge. Whatever the ideology was, I am 100% on board. Bring back patchwork!!!

The collection feels quietly revolutionary. It’s also a reminder of why we cling to the slightly smaller scale shows. Jason Wu here crafts garments that act like paintings you can wear, the marks, layers, and mismatched fragments aren’t flaws but the very texture of creativity. Each look crafted to perfection, each tear, unfinished seam etc all done for a purposeful reason! This is the kind of work that lingers for a while, I sure won’t be forgetting it for a long time! 

See the entire collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/jason-wu/slideshow/collection

Bach Mai - September 14th @7pm

Look 22

Bach Mai remains a rising name in New York, blending couture with a downtown, modern sensibility. The 25 look collection, leaned heavily into eveningwear, demonstrating technical skill (draping, tailoring, pattern work) while balancing sophistication and boldness.

Bach Mai’s SS26 collection at NYFW blended refined couture techniques with bold tailoring, featuring sheer organza suiting, structured gowns, and playful polka dots. With its fusion of elegance and edge, the collection exuded confidence and modern elegance.

Key takeaways from the show were: Organza suits, cropped shorts paired with tailored hacking jackets, evening‐trenches over more delicate pieces. The uproar of polka dots came once more, polka motifs appear in several forms - from lab coat styles to strapless mini‑dresses, to transparent panel work. The collection also played with more classical suiting patterns - plaid dresses, incorporating corsetry into unexpected fabrics and silhouettes.

The show feels made for “sophisticated grown‑ups”: those who appreciate refinement, structure, but also a little theatrical flair. It was lively, sophisticated and well done. However, to lean too far into the polka-dot trend is possibly a mistake due to how much has been consumed already, will it still be a large enough trend in Spring/ Summer 2026?

See the full collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/bach-mai/slideshow/collection

Toteme - September 15th @10am

Look 18

Known as a Swedish quiet luxury brand providing refined, elevated basics debuted their Spring/ Summer 2026 collection earlier today (15th September). Focusing largely on adding to their signature minimalism, but with a heightened sense of architectural precision. Introducing new depths of silhouette and materiality, this collection was very much about refined tailoring and easy dressing. 

The colour palette remained quietly luxurious - very on theme for Toteme! Think soft neutrals: ivories, stones, tans, blacks, and whites with hints of interspersed richer earth tones occasionally dropped in accessorising pieces. Fabrics included fluid silks, mohair, crisp poplins, and whispers of lace - Look 18 (shown to the right) seamlessly blended poplin, mohair, and silk in Toteme’s modern take on a three-piece suit! 

There was a brilliant interplay of structure and softness throughout the collection. Sharply tailored jackets and softly tapered trousers were balanced with flowing gowns, gathered tops, and skirts that moved with subtle grace as the models walked.

The silhouettes feel modern yet familiar e.g. wide-leg trousers, asymmetric hems, and layered dresses. For example Look 16 (first left) which featured purposeful layering and perfect wide-leg trousers. Or Look 31 (second left) - A simplistic under-dress and immensely detailed open sleeve lace mini-dress. Two of my favourites from the collection!

Tailoring remains the brand’s core strength, showcasing clean lines, precise proportions, and an unwavering commitment to understated silhouettes - there were many trench coats on offer this season. Accessories and styling follow suit: minimal yet intentional, with elevated leather goods, discreet metallic hardware, and shoes that felt almost statementless.

What feels new in SS26 is the embedding of movement and tactility - shearling touches or softness that catches light; slits, fluid folds. In this collection Toteme seems to acknowledge the need for elegance that lives, that moves with the body, with real life! More lived simplicity.

Overall, Toteme SS26 refined it's identity - less minimalism for the sake of minimalism, more minimalism made purposeful with texture, dimension, and quiet confidence. For those who love subtlety, this is a collection that speaks volumes without saying much at all.

See the entire collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/toteme/slideshow/collection

Diotima - September 15th @4pm

Diotima’s Spring 2026 Ready‑to‑Wear collection, unveiled in their first ever runway debut. The collection felt like a delicate tension between the fully formed and the quietly unfinished, a “soft undoing,” as Rachel Scott describes - founder and creative director. The designs lean into edges with raw hems, knits that fray, and silhouettes that suggest movement with exaggerated shapes, offering a quietly tactile, sensual femininity. 

The collection mixed soft pastels, bright pops of colour, and sun-washed prints with deeper, more earthy tones. Texture is key - with mesh crochet features, bouclé yarn, and touchable knits adding depth. Some pieces include delicate details that feel both pretty and slightly raw. Accessories keep the natural vibe going, with raffia, and shapes inspired by nature.

At its core, the collection reflects Scott’s Jamaican roots and holds a strong focus on craft, while also embracing imperfection as part of beauty. It’s a quiet push against perfection, resulting in pieces that feel raw, real, and deeply personal - a refreshing take that leaves a lasting impression. I am excited to see what Scott brings as her brand grows & her creative direction at Proenza Schouler evolves. There is no debating this woman is exceptionally talented!  

See the full collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/diotima/slideshow/collection

Lii - September 16th @3pm - 

Look 2

Lii’s Spring 2026 ready‑to‑wear collection by Zane Li felt like a quiet revolution, coming from an up and comer, unassuming at first, but full of detail once you begin to really see. The looks favoured clean lines and thoughtful structure, offset by moments of softness in sheer layering, loose silhouettes, and fabric drape that moves.

It’s modern in a minimalist kind of way: tailored trousers, lighter outerwear, lots of layers, and softer pieces mingling with structured pieces without ever making the transitions feel jarring. 

The colour story is grounded yet fresh: muted neutrals dominate, so think creams, off-white, greys and tans, with occasional points of contrast - darker tones and pops of bright blues, reds, pinks, and greens. The fabrics leaned toward natural feels: lighter weights, materials that breathe and flow, and textures that feel lived in rather than stiff.

Styling kept the mood consistent - low chaos, high intention. Accessories seemed minimal, letting the clothes do the speaking. Interestingly the models had been made to either look ridiculously exhausted, i’m talking eye bags from a mile away. Or their eyes had weirdly been smothered in vaseline to get the look of tears. Weird!

Silhouette shifts appear in soft vs. structured balances: cinched waists give way to flowing hems; tailoring is precise but not rigid. The collection teases a sense of ease, something wearable and approachable, yet still rooted in a design sensibility that values form, contrast, and the interplay of fabric and movement. And promising a SS26 full of layering apparently. 

Overall, Lii SS26 doesn’t try to shock or shout. It’s less about spectacle and more about nuance: how cut, fabric, and subtle shifts in proportion can create a wardrobe that feels for spring yet built to endure. For anyone seeking pieces that balance utility and elegance, this is a good collection to turn to.

See the full collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/lii/slideshow/collection

Goodbye NYC

As NYFW rounds off i'm both sad and happy to see it go. My hands are relieved at the thought of a day off without typing like a lunatic every second of everyday. But my brain is already aching for New York and the faint buzz of fashion icons trapsing around Central Park and whatnot.

However... it brings us swiftly onto none other than Mimi's hometown and place of work. London town. LFW is beginning on the 17th September and we've got you covered with all the shows you must watch, and needn't bother - coming to the blog just before the shows unveil! I'll see you there once I've had time to rest my hands.

With love,

Mimi x