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Paris Fashion Week SS26: Lanvin, Courrèges & Dries Van Noten

  • Mimi Piqua
  • Sep 30
  • 7 min read

First full day of Paris Fashion Week is a-go! We've had Louis Vuitton at the Louvre this morning, then Lanvin, Courrèges, Dries Van Noten & finally Stella McCartney - who absolutely stole the show for me and managed to get herself a separate blog post because, it was just THAT good!


Starting below with Lanvin - in chronological order of course! It was blue, it was bold and it was archival. Peter Copping really is bringing Lanvin back to be great again...


Lanvin - September 30th @2:30pm 

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Lanvin’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection marks what feels like a rebirth for the house, the oldest French fashion house still in operation! With Peter Copping stepping in as Artistic Director in mid-2024, this season sees the beginning of a new chapter: one that reconnects with Jeanne Lanvin’s heritage while reshaping it for the modern world. It’s not about nostalgia, but revival - elegant, quiet, and deeply considered.


Founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin, the house was originally known for refined craftsmanship, luxurious materials, and rich detailing - qualities that are now being restored under Copping’s direction. Thank God! One of the most symbolic returns is the reappearance of “Lanvin Blue,” a signature shade developed by Jeanne herself in her Nanterre dye factory.


In SS26, this colour becomes more than a reference - it’s the foundation. The entire collection is staged against a blue backdrop, with many looks exploring the hue in varying tones. Look 4, in particular, a caped billowing blue blouse which blends so seamlessly into the set that it almost disappears - an elegant visual metaphor for identity, legacy, and presence.


Copping’s vision is about wearable elegance: rich draping, fine tailoring, and ornamentation that whispers rather than shouts. He draws directly from the archives with ribboned silhouettes, lace, cape details, and Art Deco influences, but never falls into replication. These references are filtered through a contemporary lens, reinterpreted to feel relevant, fluid, and modern.


Menswear also had a revival in this collection, under his direction there is an increased emphasis on inclusivity and utility. The silhouettes blur gender lines, and the pieces feel designed for life beyond the catwalk. 


What struck me most about the show was its quiet confidence. The styling - head wraps, oversized earrings, modest yet structured cuts which exuded grace and regality. While the collection is anchored in blue, the colour palette expanded with surprising injections of red, orange, yellow-green, and rich neutrals. The result? A serene yet vivid symphony of tone and texture.


This collection was a statement that Lanvin are back and are returning to their roots, with a modern twist! The SS26 pieces don’t scream for attention. They draw you in with their elegance, their detail, their unmistakable sense of heritage.


Lanvin SS26 is a beautiful tribute to the house’s origins and a subtle declaration of its evolution. It proves that legacy isn’t something to be left in the past - it’s something to be built upon. And with Copping at the helm, Lanvin is doing exactly that: gilded but wearable, decorative but not overdone, timeless yet fresh.


My favourite looks: 2, 4, 6, 8, 15, 16, 17, 24, 30, 33, 35, 39, 44, 48, 52, 57, 59, 60



Dries van Norten - September 30th @4pm 

SO MUCH COLOUR! Colour was dripping from (almost) every look in this 62 look collection. It was unique, it was fresh and it wasn’t providing the same menial average looks we’ve been served day after day at a large quantity of these shows over the past few weeks. 


Look 18
Look 18

The show started off with a bare faced model wearing a buttoned up cream trench coat appliqued with slightly darker accents. It created a lace effect on the coat and I knew already this collection wasn’t going to be full of boring silhouettes and simplistic colourways! Even in this opening look there were pops of colour in a burgundy trainer shoe and matching burgundy ankle socks. 


The one thing that did catch my eye immediately was the hair on this model which I will admit isn’t the most flattering, the hair was tied up but also falling down in a messy, “I did it myself” kind of way, and she had a microscopic micro bang - which didn’t fully blend into her natural colouring so It did look sometimes like a barcode on her forehead. And this was the central theme of the hair as many of the models had this same situation! 


The entire collection was a day-dream, filled with ruffles, absurdly capacious handbags - held at the hip, embellishments - which were so detailed and beautifully done - Look 5 has the most beautiful jacket covered in so many beads and gems, it was stunning! And paired with a strategic hot pant to bring all the focus to the jacket. 


Sheer fabric made an appearance, trend prediction for SS26 apparently! So many houses are bringing forward sheers to this season, but these pieces were so beautiful, one in particular - Look 18 (above)! This Look merged the sheer, with polka dots, colours, and the cape silhouette rapidly growing in the trends. It is so beautiful, so delicate, and so on theme! I would 1000% buy this, not even to just wear in Spring/Summer but over jeans in the winter. WOW. 


This is where the colour begins to really brew in this collection as stripes, swirls, spots,  colour blocking in every possible avenue basically. And yet none of it is overwhelming, the colours are partnered together and are done so beautifully - there was green mixed with orange in the form of a blazer, usually I would say ew but this worked so perfectly. 


There was a section of the collection that focused primarily on bright yellows and bold black appliques, which again worked in an unconventional way. Then there were more stripes, and spots, and even a look with abstract shapes?! Which then becomes the core focus of the collection until the end as bold reds, blues, oranges, fuchsia, and neon greens all announce themselves through several different looks.


ABOVE - LOOKS (in order) 49, 44, 5, 1


One standout being Look 44 (above) which is a bright red (Tomato red!) superbly tailored two -piece skirt set, with white shapes in abstract manners coming into the red and leaving a unique design. This runs throughout the rest of the collection! But at Look 49 (above) we get another upgrade as the same bold colours emerge but this time covered in sequins, beading and a sparkly tinsel-esque fabric. Some of which was giving Christmas, but if the sets were separated would 100% be summer approved!


This collection was superb, it was cool, fun, fresh and served 100% funky chic which is exactly the vibe I aspire to be excluding when it gets to Spring/ Summer 2026!! Dries Van Noten just gave themselves a skyrocketed upgrade in my books. 


All my Favourite looks: 2, 5, 10, 12, 14, 15, 18, 20, 25, 35, 44, 45, 47, 49, 57, 60



Courreges - September 30th @5:30pm

This collection was bold, it was fresh, it was Courrèges. The house, founded in 1961 by André and Coqueline Courrèges, has always marched to the beat of a very futuristic drum, space age silhouettes, geometric lines, and fabrics that feel more engineered than sewn. We’re talking rigid shapes, PVC, sculptural boots - fashion that at the time questioned what women could wear and redefined it!


Look 1
Look 1

Fast forward to today, and under Nicolas Di Felice (Creative Director since 2020), Courrèges is in full revival mode. Di Felice brings a strong background, and he’s made it clear: he sees Courrèges as a house of optimism, clarity, and simplicity. While recent years had felt a little detached from the now, SS26 proves that this brand is listening again. It’s growing, modernising, and finally tuning into the Gen Z wavelength - without losing its DNA.


The SS26 Pre‑Collection set the tone beautifully. Titled “Mirrors of Paris,” the campaign ditched traditional studio shoots for something far more intimate - mirror selfies. Eighteen muses shot themselves on smartphones across real Parisian spots: stairwells, streets, shopfronts. It felt spontaneous, raw, and wearable. Clothes in context. It was about authenticity and digital self-expression, letting fashion be seen as lived, not staged.


That authenticity bled right into the main collection - but make no mistake, there was drama. The first four looks were eccentric - above! Blue-on-blue monochromatic outfits (clearly the colour of the season), each featuring baseball caps that were covered in fabric and melted down into veiled tops, obscuring the model’s faces and billowing dramatically. Visually, they stunned. Practically? Who knows. But they were gorgeous. And they reappeared again later in the show, looping us back to the start -  a clever narrative move from Di Felice.


The middle section leaned more wearable - but still had cool girl energy all over it. Tailoring met streetwear in effortless ways. Slick leather jackets layered over teal blues, chunky silver bangles that felt straight out of the it-girl starter pack, and clever little shorts which led into a skirt trailing behind! Like a backwards skort! Look 21 (below) nailed it in denim. 


ABOVE - LOOKS (in order) 21, 39, 28, 26


Then came the final four, echoing the show’s opening in a cyclical structure. Four structured dresses, each wired to curve up and around the model’s faces, were sculptural, spacey and softened by wearable colour palettes. From a shimmering beige mini to a floor-sweeping black gown, they tied the whole show together: futurism meets functionality, statement meets subtlety.


And if the clothes didn’t convince you it was the show to be at, the cast certainly did, Alex Consani, Mona Tougaard, Loli Bahia, and Anok Yai all walked. Courrèges is officially back on the map, and SS26 is proof that it’s looking firmly and fabulously forward.


All my favourite looks: 1, 4, 9, 20, 21, 26, 27, 28, 32, 37, 39



What's to come -

Pinch me, the day has finally (almost) arrived! Dior Day! I have been anticipating this show for months, JW Anderson is my idol in today's design demographic. I am on the edge of my seat - literally.


Not as important (as i'm sure you will concur) but also on offer tomorrow is Acne Studios, Tom Ford and Balmain! So exciting.


With love,

Mimi x

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