top of page

Tory Burch SS26: Threads of Optimism

  • Mimi Piqua
  • Sep 16
  • 3 min read
Look 4!!!
Look 4!!!

Tory Burch. Wow. Thank god the all-white opening look didn’t recur at this SS26 show! Fashion has felt substantially vanilla over the past 4 days of NYFW. I actually stopped being as hopeful for NY sometime on the 12th of September.


The instinct to simplify and provide contemporary, minimalistic collections is becoming too normalised. We want fashion! Literally I’m starving for some good collections to come my way. Don’t get me wrong, serene understated clothes are of course understandable - particularly in a ready-to-wear collection. But Tory Burch didn’t take this memo, she opted for more colours, thank god, and more quirkiness! 


Burch stated she wanted “some joy and optimism in this collection, just based on everything that’s happening in the world.”  So rather than following the current trend toward muted or “vanilla” palettes, the collection embraced colour, unusual details, and playful shapes. Leaning away from pure preppy toward more daring, interesting design elements, without becoming excessively avant‑garde. There’s a lot of pieces you’d notice at first glance, and immediately want to buy. The show has been framed as part of a “creative renaissance” for Burch, as she gave up her CEO role and refocused on design, and investing time into her atelier and craftsmanship.


Let’s get into the show:

Colour palette: Brown, Blue, Black, Yellow, Green, Lilac, Pink, Gold, Red 

Patterns:  Polka, Stripes - very on trend.

Favourite looks: Look 1, 4, 10 , 14, 16, 18, 26, 29, 35, 39



The opening look - donned by none other than Loli, upcoming supermodel - not the only supermodel Burch managed to confirm either, Alex Consani & Emily Ratajkowski - shown below. Loli opened the show gracefully, sweeping the runway in a simplistic baby blue cotton shirt. Paired with brown 3/4 length trousers with a faint abstract stripe pattern.


Accessory wise they seem to have chosen to do what can only be described as an off-brand Birkin. The outfit is most definitely Ready-to-Wear, but equally looks runway ready with statement earrings, and a beautiful brooch on the right colour. Burch has clearly chosen silver as her hardware choice for the SS26 season, although gold does appear in one look (Look 31) as a very bold shirt choice. Made in a crinkled fabric for a worn in effect - this is also prominent in many of the looks. 


ABOVE - LOOKS (in order) 16, 1, 18, 26, 10, 31


As with all of the looks the makeup has been kept refreshingly natural, and the hair was interestingly done in more of an unique comb over look that feels free and allowed for the craftsmanship to really stand out. In Look 4 (above) - Another favourite of mine, with multiple bright blue tones, there is a teal bias cut striped skirt that I am in love with! Paired with a deeper blue blazer (with another beautiful brooch on the right collar) and a really deeply bright vest peeping out over the top. Burch’s attempt to refocus on design is really showing throughout the collection in how cohesive the looks all go together! 


One of my favourite looks is the simplistic dressing of Look 10 - shown above. With an open two layered skirt the look uses a warm, rich bright pink shade. The fabric appears lightweight and with slight sheen, perhaps a silk blend or something similarly fluid, allowing soft drape. There's a contrast between structure and flow. The skirt is so perfectly constructed with a fluid, gentle gathering to allow movement, and the waist is superbly defined, with a strategically tied belt accentuating the silhouette of the model. 


Look 39!!!
Look 39!!!

Her attempt to add to the craftsmanship at her atelier has 100% paid off, particularly in the more intricate pieces of the collection. For example look 39 (shown to the right) - the final look features hand embroidery, lots of beading, and artisanal detailing (all meticulous tasks) The yellow, and white beading on the sheer black dress works magnificently well , as does its twin earlier in the collection with pink and blue beading. 


The collection holds nods to Burch’s own personal history - including inspired patterns from her past, such as her father’s old suit jacket inspiring one of the blazers! This is why the entire collection felt personal, appreciative, and appropriate for the SS26 Season.


Burch has reclaimed her creative voice and I have to give her credit, this is one of the most impressive collections from a big name brand I’ve seen all week. I finally have faith from NYFW that fashion is in fact not dead, and will not forever be vanilla. 


With love, 

Mimi x


Comments


 -196.jpg

Join Club Mimi

Sign up to our exclusive Club Mimi Newsletter now...

so you never miss a blog post. 

bottom of page