LFW (22nd) SS26: Goodbye London, hello Gucci?
- Mimi Piqua
- Sep 22
- 7 min read
God, how time works in mysterious ways. This London Fashion Week has flown by ridiculously fast. What the hell. I mean not to brag but my LFW was filled with 5 days of back to back castings, eating many salads and writing every chance I got to please all of you loyal readers.
Then I got a show and successfully walked and closed the runway (not sure if you heard) AHH. Still cannot get over it, and after getting back from said runway had to catch up on all the wide range of talent from yesterdays shows which eneded up bringing me to 4am this morning. Not the best choice.
But that brings me to now, when I am about to start writing the recap for the fifth and final day of London Fashion Week. Starting with a wildcard from Gucci who (not in London) released a digital look-book of their new SS26 Collection randomly and had everyone in shock...
Gucci?!?!
What? 36 hours before the scheduled show in Milan on 23rd September Gucci, under new creative direction by Demna unveiled a surprise lookbook ahead of the scheduled film-format Milan presentation tomorrow evening. A brilliant play by Demna to add anticipation and gain traction to the Gucci SS26 Collection.
Each of the 38 looks were shown on different models including Alex Consani, and Lila Moss (they could be walking tomorrow) and were presented in unique photo frames with plaques naming all the different looks! From “La Diva” to “Primadonna” I am successfully on the edge of my seat for tomorrow's show.
See full mic-drop moment here -
Rory William Docherty - 22nd @10am
I’ve had my eye on Rory William Docherty for a while now, and his first solo show at London
Fashion Week definitely didn’t disappoint. In a fashion world where standing out is near-impossible, this emerging designer just proved he has a place in the most competitive industry in the world!
The 30-look collection felt like a glimpse into a dystopian future, where sharp tailoring meets survivalist energy. There were futuristic straw hats, dramatic boxy silhouettes, beaded accessories that looked almost ceremonial, and the kind of fabric pairings that felt raw but refined - like he was dressing for both the and the red carpet.
One of my favourite looks had to be Look 12 (on the left) a cropped green tweed blazer covered in these huge, conker-like embellishments. It was weird, wonderful, and totally unforgettable. Underneath was a black and orange tie-dye shirt with a built-in tie! Paired with lime green trousers. It felt like a weird punk academia meets a dystopian post-apocalyptic garden party. Obsessed.
Throughout the collection, there was this consistent push and pull between chaos and control. Look 24 (shown above), for example, had a cropped pink trench layered over an olive green shirt with a wild, tethered collar - topped off with a lime green tie and matching trousers. It was bold, offbeat, and totally Rory.
He also played with sheer fabrics, distressed knits, and experimental shapes that added to the otherworldly vibe. And those accessories, the bags, the headpieces, the giant beaded necklaces - all felt very futuristic, like another dimension.
Rory William Docherty’s SS26 debut wasn’t just a fashion show; it was full of vision. One that’s strange, bold, beautifully uncomfortable, and very, very exciting!
See the full collection here -
Susan Fang - 22nd @12pm
Susan Fang’s SS26 show was surreal. I loved every second of it. It felt very dreamlike, and
you can see why when you see the collection. The runway had models weaving through lush, jungle-like surroundings, setting the stage for what became one of the most cohesive and enchanting collections of the season.
The opener? Show-stopping. (Shown on left) A jacket and skirt covered in individual square glass beads, stitched into panels and creating a rainbow hue effect. It was intricate, powerful, and honestly, one of the most compelling opening looks I’ve seen this season. From that moment, I just knew Susan was about to deliver.
Footwear had its own moment too - particularly those fluffy boots in Look 11 and Look 23, wide-fitting and ribboned to perfection. That same fluffy texture later reappeared in a genius ballet flat–slipper hybrid that looked ridiculously comfortable but also super cool.
And a very big surprise element? Nike! Whether it was the black tee layered under a sheer dress (Look 22) or the blue-tick socks in Look 24 (shown below) paired with oversized blue shoes, the sporty branding worked seamlessly. It added an unexpected urban twist to Fang’s ethereal aesthetic - and the affiliation didn’t seem tacky or weird it felt cohesive and well done.
Accessories were another highlight. Chunky beaded necklaces, whimsical glass details, and that jaw-dropping headpiece in Look 26! Which helped make the collection feel like wearable art. And let’s talk bridal, because Looks 29 and 32 (shown on right) served fairytale elegance. Sweeping white gowns with delicate veils, beaded headpieces, clear crystal beads dropping down the fabrics like rain and drops of muted colours if you looked hard enough.
Gel shoes, floating textures, beadwork, softness… This collection was thoughtful, tactile, and totally transportive. Across 34 looks, the vibe stayed strong: dreamy, experimental, and emotionally light. This collection definitely felt otherworldly, and I would definitely live in that world.
See the full collection here - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/susan-fang#review
Conner Ives - 22nd @2pm
Traditionally a February fixture, Conner Ives made his high-profile return to LFW this September with a collection that delivered everything I hoped for and more. Fresh off the back of his politically-charged “Protect the Dolls” drop (where all proceeds went to TransLifeline), Ives has cemented himself as a designer who not only talks the talk but actively uses his platform to amplify trans rights. That energy was loud and clear on the runway.
The casting spoke volumes. Trans women were front and centre, in fact, more trans models walked than not, and it felt so right. Authentic. Expected. This is exactly what Conner Ives is about.
Just two looks in and Iris Law (shown below) appeared in a sheer pink halter-neck mini dress with a matching headscarf, nude underwear, and the most jaw-dropping lime green heels adorned with dangling brown beads. These same shoes appeared again in hot pink - and I need them in my wardrobe immediately.
One thing about this collection? The details were everything. Unicorn “Never Give Up” badges (Look 5), bejewelled sheer trousers in Look 24 (insane embellishment paired with a green blazer and the hot pink heels), and the feather-trimmed drama of Look 26 (on the right), where two oversized feathers framed the model’s neck like wings.
Then came the final two looks - Look 29: a black maxi covered in 3D circular discs. Look 30: fully chainmail, completely sheer, hood included, styled with lime green knickers. Bold, brave, and so wearable in its own otherworldly way.
There was serious play with colour blocking throughout, including royal purples with lime greens, deep blues with electric pinks. Look 12 deserves a moment too: a shimmering pink sequin dress paired with a lily sequin headpiece tucked delicately behind the model’s ear.
It was all so feminine, so celebratory, and so cool. Beads, sequins, feathers, embellishment overload, but somehow never overwhelming. Even the baby doll tees and dresses, usually tricky to pull off, felt genuinely chic.
What sets Ives apart isn’t just his eye for bold styling or his love for maximalism. It’s his commitment to creating space in an industry that so often leaves people out. This was a whole movement, there was a deeper meaning to this show. It was one of the most diverse, inclusive, and emotionally resonant runways we’ve seen this season.
Conner Ives is in his own lane - and thank god for that.
See the full collection here -
Nanushka - 22nd @5pm
Nanushka delivered a grounded but glowing SS26 collection this season, the kind that quietly builds its power through detail, texture, and, most of all, accessories. The show opened with a classic trench shape, but all eyes were on the chunky leather waist belt cascading with rows of beads - setting the tone for the next-level accessorising seen throughout the collection.
The jewellery was bold. Massive necklaces hung like armour, especially in Look 3, where a sleek black two-piece suit was totally transformed by an oversized gold beaded necklace that covered the model’s bare chest beneath the blazer. Suddenly, it wasn’t just tailoring, it was power dressing in its truest form.
I also loved Look 10, which was one of my faves, which played with silhouettes in a striped micro short/long sleeve bodysuit. So playful. So spring. And don’t even get me started on the tassel earrings - subtle but impactful.
Suede also made a clever appearance, especially in the shoes (a trend I’m clocking everywhere right now). And those oversized beads? They weren’t just around the neck, they popped up on sandals (Look 6), oyster-shaped brooches, and even falling from the hems of menswear suits.
Pattern mixing was a bit hit-and-miss for me - Look 9 (shown below) for example had an orange striped scarf, a floral shirt and tiger print trousers. Not my personal pick, it was very bold, but the chunky leather belt holding it all together? Gorgeous. I’ll take that.
The closing look (shown on right) wrapped everything up perfectly: a dual-zip jacket with a raised collar, paired with a classic Nanushka gold necklace, a chunky belt and colour-block trousers. Clean, polished, and just the right amount of edge.
This collection wasn’t trying too hard, it was full of elevated basics with some killer Ready-to-Wear thrown in at times and that’s exactly why it worked. Elevated basics, clever layering, and serious accessories. Love, love, love.
See the full collection here -
Goodbye London Fashion Week
This SS26 season at LFW has been amazing! So much more emerging talent than I thought there would be, loved seeing the new faces debut and comment on their most impresive designs yet. Hopefully many of them return for AW26 in February's Season.
Goodbye for now LFW, this season has been a blast. The adrenaline was high, the lows were also low and I walked my first ever runway! SS26 Season you will never be forgotten. Love you forever.
With love,
Mimi x
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