Mugler Reborn: Miguel Castro Freitas Brings the Theatrics!

Look 36!

Mugler is well known for its theatrics and overtly dramatic vision. Under new creative direction from Miguel Castro Freitas, the fashion industry was, as usual, eager to see what he could bring to the house - I was expecting bold newness and excitement. And that is exactly what I was served.

Miguel Castro Freitas marks a fresh chapter for the iconic French fashion house. Known for his sharp tailoring and architectural silhouettes, he brings a refined, sensual edge to Mugler’s legacy of bold, body-conscious design. His vision centres on evolving the brand’s powerful, femme-fatale aesthetic into something more fluid and future-facing - balancing strength with vulnerability.

Castro Freitas wanted to push gender boundaries while honouring Thierry Mugler’s original spirit of glamour and theatre. He leans unapologetically into high drama and innovation, embracing the house’s heritage of transformation, spectacle, and sharply defined lines, but with a contemporary, inclusive twist.

This debut collection was nothing short of dramatic. Tailoring took centre stage, structured and regimented in ways that created some of the most superb silhouettes seen all season. The show opened with a series of looks in an orangey nude palette - minimal in tone but maximal in shape and fit. For the first ten looks, this colour reigned, before the show transitioned into a brief all-black moment, with five darker, moodier designs.

Then came the chaos.

Feathers, multicoloured details, and a shock of neon yellow suddenly erupted on the runway, entirely disrupting the colour flow and throwing the audience off balance. It was as if Castro Freitas was deliberately dismantling any preconceptions about what the show’s "vibe" was. By Look 22, we were back to nudes and warm tones, followed again by black, and then the unexpected entrance of new shades - greys and greige tones. The middle ground between beige and black, if you will.

Just when it seemed the palette had settled, a standout moment came in Look 39 (below): a sheer teal blue piece that broke through the neutral fog. It incorporated one of the show’s most innovative elements - piercings! This look featured a low-cut top held up not by straps, but by the model’s ears. Hoop earrings extended into the fabric, holding the garment aloft. So innovative. So new.

But Castro Freitas didn’t stop there. In a bolder expression of Mugler’s unapologetic sensuality, a model walked with her chest fully exposed, fabric suspended from body piercings. Look 36 (above!), in particular, showcased a sheer nude dress adorned with a metallic star pattern. It stopped just where a skirt might, and instead of traditional support, it was looped through nipple piercings. Yes, you read that right - the fabric was held up by the model’s body. Wild. Crazy. I loved it.

All my favourite looks: 3, 5, 10, 11, 14, 16, 19, 21, 22, 23, 26, 27, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 37, 39, 40, 41, 42

And yet, even among these shocking, theatrical moments, there was a consistency, a Mugler DNA. The innovation never felt out of place. Several looks pushed boundaries in quieter ways. Look 6, for example, was made entirely of beads worn over a full bodysuit. The way it hung so perfectly hinted at how bold it could be worn without the underlayer (though that would definitely risk a nip slip… or several). Other designs incorporated the large beads more practically - as corset tops under blazers, or sewn directly onto garments in structured, sculptural ways (Look 27 stood out here).

There were even animal centered looks. Look 23 (right) was, in silhouette, a relatively expected Mugler moment - flared trousers and a second-skin bodysuit in orangey-beige. But it was the headpiece that turned heads: a fully feathered lion’s mane leaving just a small oval for the model’s face.

Animalistic references continued in Look 16 (above), where black tailored trousers were paired with a top covered in bird feathers that cascaded over the hands and neck, creating a striking avian effect. A similar feathered skirt appeared a few looks later, echoing the theme.

Fringe, too, was of course present, but not in an overdone, been-there-done-that way. It was integrated into dresses, skirts, and tops, all worn nude underneath. As the models walked, the fringe swayed just enough to expose bare chests, leaning into the vulnerability Castro Freitas intended to explore.

The silk suits also deserve a moment of recognition. Their obsessively detailed tailoring was genuinely superb, precise and intentional, yet flowing and wearable. Subtle hints of glamour shimmered through in silver beading, deconstructed cuts, and disfigured silhouettes, done just subtly enough to feel like they weren’t the centre of attention. This was Mugler, yes, but it was new, sophisticated, and sharply defined.

In all, the collection was executed to near perfection.

See the full collection here: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/mugler/slideshow/collection

Miguel Castro Freitas’ Mugler is one where identity, empowerment, and bold expression take centre stage. He delivers collections that are as emotionally resonant as they are visually striking. This show was proof that Mugler’s signature drama is alive and well, evolving in very capable (& malleable) hands! 

With love, 

Mimi x