Paris Fashion Week SS26: Acne, Tom Ford & Balmain!

Today's fashion affairs started at 9am this morning when I went into university again and had to painstakingly withhold from watching all these shows live - leaving me to have to watch them and view the looks after the action and fashion has already been seen, I became a second-hand viewer today. And I didn't like it!

Dior of course was the No1 today! And Jonathan Anderson did not dissapoint, however Acne Studios still brought in an amazing collection, as did Tom Ford (this one really blew me away), and Balmain was...

Acne Studios - October 1 @5:30pm

Look 44

This collection was a glorious reminder of everything Acne Studios does best: classic acid-wash denim, washed-out leathers, quirky tailoring, and styling that felt intentionally off-kilter (jumpers hanging off the body or armholes repurposed as head holes!) It was a masterclass in deconstruction meets academia, rooted in contrasts, between hard and soft, sheer and structured, prim and undone. There were layers! Foundations! Tailoring! And nestled among the chaos, corsetry and lace wove themselves beautifully into the undone narrative.

Look 44 (right) was a standout for me. A layered shirting moment: a crisp white button-up worn beneath a deep charcoal V-neck sweater. The sleeves dramatically extended past the wrists, giving the illusion of four arms - weird, but undeniably cool. It leaned into a dishevelled intellect aesthetic: crumpled, overlong, and consciously careless. A structured belt sharply cinched the layers at the waist, pulling it all together in the most perfect, styled-to-the-millimetre kind of way. I was obsessed.

Lace had a strong presence throughout as it showed up in numerous looks - as sheer skirts, peekaboo layers, and antique-toned pieces that brought a jarring delicacy to otherwise severe silhouettes. From asymmetric corsets to ripped sheers, it offered a soft rebellion against the collection’s more tailored moments.

Accessories played a key role, too. The oversized, angular sunglasses gave the looks a cerebral coolness, the kind of aloof energy of a main character. The bags, meanwhile, felt more grounded and ‘normal,’ anchoring the looks and adding a hint of polish amidst the wildness.

The whole show danced between tailored silhouettes and lacy, goddess-like details, sometimes merging both. It gave the impression of a professor’s daughter raiding three wardrobes: her father’s academic closet, her mother’s lingerie drawer, and her own collection of downtown accessories. There’s a deliberate awkwardness built into every look. Shirts are wrinkled yet formal. Skirts are sheer but modestly layered. Leather is distressed in that Acne way that’s somehow strict but slouchy. It's an intellectual rebellion through styling.

If I had to deeply criticise one thing it would be the overwhelming amount of orange and the unfortunate conclusion that Acne wants orange to be the SS26 colour of the season. EW.  I’m rejecting that immediately, good riddance. Let’s hope it doesn’t trickle down to the high street.

This collection focuses on academic deconstruction, subtle tailoring, unconventional dressing, youthful rebellion, and subversive femininity. It's so Acne Studios, it's clever, ironic, slightly haunting, and never trying too hard. It doesn’t beg to be loved; they have a niche and stick to it loyally! I’m here for it.

All my favourite looks: 1, 5, 8, 9, 12, 14, 16, 18, 19, 24, 26, 30, 31, 34, 37, 39, 42, 44

Link to the entire collection: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/acne-studios/slideshow/collection

Tom Ford - October 1 @7pm

The opening trio!! POWERFUL

What a show, what a man, what a city, what a colour palette, what tailoring! Need I go on?

Haider Ackermann’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection for Tom Ford was nothing short of breathtaking. This 58-look lineup was bold, beautiful, and immaculately styled, a triumphant display of power, elegance, and sensuality that honoured the brand’s DNA while injecting it with Ackermann’s signature poetic flair.

Let’s start with the casting: exceptional. The diversity of models and the strength of their presence allowed the collection to sing. Short hair across many of the early looks gave space for the garments to take centre stage - and take it they did!!

The show opened with a dazzling trio of belted overcoats in rich, embellished burgundy, black, and a vivid pop of green. These first looks (which set the tone for a collection heavy on cohesive trios and pairs) were cinched perfectly at the waist, exuding structured glamour from the get-go. The group photo of them together? Absolutely powerful.

Ackermann’s tailoring was undoubtedly the star. From fluid suiting to skin-tight slinky dresses, every piece was constructed with intention. The silhouettes? Impeccable. Standouts included a series of velvet jackets in deep jewel tones, and the trio of power suits at looks 47 to 49 (below) - in shocking green, pastel pink, and a minty blue. Fitted to perfection, they radiated confidence and sex appeal. 

Menswear wasn’t left behind either. Among others, a pale pink suit stuck out to me, paired with a matching scarf, oozed monochromatic charm, while a deep blue silk set appeared in both men’s and women’s looks - a nod to the increasing fluidity and co-ed focus of Ackermann’s Tom Ford.

But it wasn’t all suits. Lace and sheers played a huge role in the collection, injecting a sense of raunchy romance. One unforgettable look (number 44 - below) layered a sharply tailored black blazer over a barely-there sheer dress - essentially a single sliver of fabric trailing up the neck. The only real coverage came from the blazer itself, but it worked. It was bold, impractical, and utterly beautiful.

Alex Consani floated down the runway in a sheer, lingerie-inspired black lace dress, adding more to the sensual aspect of the collection. And the penultimate look featured a jaw-dropping dress with a sharp silhouette to expose one breast and have it covered only by a structured neckline wrapping around and hanging over. Again, it was tailored, clever, and strikingly sensual.

Haider Ackermann was appointed creative director of Tom Ford in September 2024. While Tom Ford has always been about sex appeal and sophistication, Ackermann brings a softness, a sense of contrasts: day vs night, structure vs fluidity, purity vs seduction.

The SS26 show encapsulated that vision. It felt cinematic, cohesive, and conscious of the brand’s global expansion, offering wearable luxury without compromising on impact. As Tom Ford moves further into Paris under Haider’s lead, we’re witnessing the brand evolve from overt spectacle to atmospheric seduction - but make no mistake, the drama is still alive. It’s just sharper, and sexier!

All my favourite looks: 1, 3, 12, 14, 16, 23, 25, 31, 38, 42, 44, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 58

See the full collection here: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/tom-ford/slideshow/collection

Balmain - October 1 @8pm

Look 48

Olivier Rousteing, the French designer who has helmed Balmain since 2011, continues to prove why he is one of the most influential figures in contemporary fashion with the brand’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Rousteing became creative director at just 25, succeeding Christophe Decarnin. Since then, he has transformed the house, creating a modern and inclusive “New French Style” that fuses Balmain’s couture heritage with contemporary influences, expanding its global presence and digital reach dramatically.

Today, Balmain’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection felt like a perfect continuation of that vision. Earthy tones dominated the runway: olive, khaki, rust, beige, cream, chocolate brown, with surprising pops of red and orange and sand (of course!) that seamlessly blended with the overall palette. Silhouettes were airy and flowing, from wide-leg trousers to hobo-style draping. Slouchy boots, shell-covered dresses, flip-flops, and intricately draped pieces created a sense of effortless movement while remaining wearable. Beaded necklaces doubled as tops, netted designs teased glimpses of the stomach, and fringe added playful texture, all nodding to current trends without ever feeling forced.

Rousteing’s signature artistry was evident throughout. Inspired by his 2024 Met Gala sand dress for Tyla, the collection incorporated sand and shell details in multiple ways: a bodysuit in Look 19, a bralette in Look 32, and a fully shell-and-sand tracksuit in Look 40 (below), paired with ankle boots also covered in shells. These pieces evoked the ocean witch aesthetic - otherworldly, tactile, and entirely mesmerising. All of the details throughout the entire collection were so planned and evidently well executed. It was so purposeful and intentionally done! Every detail. I’m gobsmacked. 

Crochet and knits in vibrant hues also added to the collection’s beachy, summer-ready energy. But Look 9 took it one step further by wearing a literal towel. A red toned towel dress, as if freshly out the ocean, paired with flip flops covered in shells and a really large tasseled bag! And while we are talking about crazy looks - Look 38 included a top that was made of what looked like a very realistic amethyst crystal! This level of  innovation needs to be studied!

The final look (Look 48 - above) was pure magic: a mini dress imagined as if crafted by mermaids, exactly the kind of thing a siren would be wearing before luring a man into the sea. This collection was more than clothing, it was storytelling, a celebration of artistry and wearable fantasy! Rousteing as usual appeared after the finale in an understated white tee and wide-leg jeans, fully letting his creations speak for themselves - and that they did!

Balmain SS26 is the epitome of summer: colors, textures, and silhouettes that feel like the beach you can wear, a bold yet elegant testament to Rousteing’s genius. Once again, he proves that Balmain under his guidance is not just a fashion house - it’s a living, breathing work of art.

All my favourite looks: 3, 4, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 14, 19, 20, 26, 30, 31, 32, 38, 39, 40, 43, 48

See the full collection here: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2026-ready-to-wear/balmain/slideshow/collection

What's to come

Um The Row, Mugler, Rabanne, Rich Owens and topping it all off with Schiaparelli & Isabel Marant. Tomorrow has all the right ingredients to be such an amazing day! Just will they be able to cook or not... we will see.

With love,

Mimi x